So yesterday Santa came to town and announced it was Christmas! With 1-1,5 m waves and 10 sec in between and no wind! Clean as my bank account! I was ofcourse stuck at work 1,5 hours drive from the coast and my phone kept ringing all day with messages ticking in on how sick the coast was…
Finally I left around 3, and met up with my loveliest of friends around 5 and had the spot all to our self! Delish! The other spots where probably better -but crowded. This was our playground. At 6:30 Peter joined -straight from work, and the waves kept getting better and better. Peter got amazing and long rides on his 7,1 which he hasn’t ridden for over a year. It was annoying haha! The guy surfs 3 times a year and gets it better than I do. Oh how physique is determant for how you ride….
We stopped and was surfed out around 7:30 And oooh so happy and tired.
Any ways it was autumn, it was awesome, it was fucking Christmas!!!!
Proper surf stoke