Almost-summer-post-work-surf

It was a hard week at work this one, so Friday at 13 o clock, I packed my bags, skipped the Friday Beer (First and last time ever, to do that) and drove back home to the coast. Clean, flat ocean, the reef provided a small surf, and only a few people were out. But I lacked motivation, and I was still so low on batteries after this work week, so I turned to the couch, and napped. But luckily I have Louise! She is my best surf buddy at the moment, and while she was racing back home from work, we psyched each other to go for that sundown surf, that we had been dreaming of the whole week. She’s just back from Bali along with a snazzy little 6’0 and she was keen on giving the warm water board a cold water treatment. So off we drove to Bunkers, me and my longboard, her and her new little board snack. And it worked. There was still a few waves on offer! I had a hard time in the beginning, but suddenly I started catching, and didn’t scare. It is weird how Bunkers sometimes freak me out. -Bunkers is also reef, and I am still not familiar with how the the ground is… But to be completely fair, I did catch the first wave I paddled for, so somehow it was a mid-session fear, that build. Weird huh? Aaaany ways, as the light disappeared -around 6:30, so did the waves. And we closed the break, with hearts full of love! You just never regret paddling out!

Words of the session: L:”The water is so clear! You can almost see your feet”. Me: “If we had shorter legs we would have seen them!” L: “YES! It is a known fact, that the water is clearer if you have shorter legs. It is science!”

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